Head up to the grittiest part of New York's South Bronx, where deals are made in the dead of night on a massive concrete floor that reeks of fish guts.
The New Fulton Fish Market is the nation's largest seafood market, where fishmongers frenetically sell 200 million pounds of seafood a year worth close to $1 billion by some estimates.
Every night, beginning at 1 a.m., experienced buyers negotiate prices in seconds, judging quality on a look, a touch, a smell and often a raw taste.
Fish experts say they look for bright red gills, clear eyes and flesh that smells like the ocean. One buyer says he has an additional test for the freshness of scallops -- they should feel like a "baby's bottom" to the touch.